Is it safe to nail between the layers of plywood?

I'm building a box that's 1 ft^3 and the only wood I'm allowed to use is 1/2 inch fir plywood. That requires me to nail the face to the perpendicular layers of another piece. I also have to stand on this box and I'm around 230 lbs. There will be slight horizontal force when I step on the box so I'm scared that'll cause the nail to shred right through the wood. Will that be fine or is there a stronger and relatively easier way to join and fasten the plywood together.





Sorry if I sound like a noob, because I am.Is it safe to nail between the layers of plywood?
If you want a strong joint, it would be best to create an interlocking edge/profile on the pieces you wish to join. Then use a good wood glue, like Titebond II. I'd use a screw before I'd use a nail.





This type of router bit, for example, would provide for a good strong miter joint - http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offer鈥?/a>


And here is one called a 'drawer lock' - http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offer鈥?/a>





A more simple approach would be to cut a rabbet, dado, or notch, so that you have more joint surface, on which to put glue. Many bookshelves and cabinets use this method when applying the back to the unit.





If you want to go 'old school', then dovetail the edges together - hold tight enough tolerances, and you won't even need any glue. There are a number of 'simpler' methods of notching edges so that the pieces overlap each other, called 'box joints', or 'finger joints'. They all work on the same principle, but are made of simpler geometric shapes. All of these methods provide for a very strong joint.


Now... since you are using 1/2'; plywood, you'll find you cannot make a lot of 'small' dovetails, or box joints - the plywood will break off. So, instead of making a 1/2'; dovetail, for example, make a 1';, or 2';, etc, dovetail, or box joint. Just a note on the side here, dovetailing requires a router, or a really good hand with a saw and chisel, hehehehe.. but a box joint can be made on a table saw, as well as the dado, and rabbet joints.





The worst thing you could do, would be to just nail one flat edge up against another.





Now, all you said was the box is going to be 1ft 3 (inches).... do you mean its a cube? or are the length, width and height different? For a strong platform to stand on, you want to make not only the outsides of the box, but you should also put one or two pieces inside, vertically, to help support more weight, and make the whole thing 'stiffer'.





I've built steps out of basic boxes, as well as platforms, stair landings, and even choir risers. You can make this very stable and strong.





Again, use glue if it is allowed in this project, and use screws, not nails, if you must use a fastener. IF you use one of the above mentioned methods of notching the edges together (finger joints, dovetails, etc), then you won't need any nails, screws, or even glue, if you keep your tolerances tight.





Feel free to email me, if you have any questions, or would like to go into more detail about your project.





Have FunIs it safe to nail between the layers of plywood?
nail the two sides from top and bottom ..in other words make the top and bottom the flat bits ...you will not see the side joins ..this will carry you easy ...must say though ..you scare easy !
The best way to make a joint with plywood wood be a combination of glue and screws (mainly to hold the joint firmly together before the glue dries). Standard Elmer's wood glue works fine, but if your in a hurry you could use five minute epoxy or epoxy gel or another adhesive. The bond areas should be clean of dust but not sanded smooth. The rougher the texture the better.





If you don't want to use clamps to hold it together while the glue sets then predrill holes where you are going to screw it together (particularly important for the ';into layer'; side and use drywall screws to secure the sides) Make a trial piece and size the drill bit to keep it from cracking but leave enough meat for the screw to grab. Drill straight.





Make sure you stand on the edges of the box or provide center support (internal X shape).
Without describing any limitations, here's what I would do to achieve your goal: About 2 inches from the edge of the side piece, I'd cut a 1/2 inch slot from the top of the plywood, and extend the slot halfway down the side. For example, if the height of your box is going to be 12';, measure and cut the 1/2'; slot (same width as the plywood for a reason) 6'; down to the middle of the board. Next, cut a 1/2'; slot in the perpendicular board that will join to that side. It should be 2'; from the edge as well; however, this slot should start from the bottom, and extend upwards 6';. Then you can join these two boards together, by sliding one board on top of the other where the slots are cut. Do this all around the for joints and the square will remain firm without using any glue or nails or screws. You could also add a middle brace by using the same method, just cut slots in the middle of the side boards and the middle brace. This will allow you to place a board atop the box, and the brace in the middle will easily support 400 lbs. You could use very small finishing nails and/or glue to afix the top board.


When you're finished, your box will have a two-inch overhang on each corner, but I assume there's no prohibition to having this.





good luck